Gucci, the Thieves of Ideas

Since the novel creative director of GUCCI (mister Alessandro Michele) took the helm, the GUCCI's inclination to unauthorized "borrowing" (of other designers' ideas) is my "evil fate", beyond all manner of doubt...

And I'm not alone. With regular periodicity in the press there are headlines of the such type:

''Two More Designers Have Called out Gucci for Plagiarism''

''TWO SEPARATE DESIGNERS CLAIM GUCCI STOLE THEIR LOGOS FOR ITS CRUISE 2018 COLLECTION''

''Gucci Stole from Black Fashion Icon Dapper Dan For Their 2018 Cruise Collection''

''Black Designer Nicholas Mayfield Accuses Gucci Of Copying His Designs. Is Gucci giving Black people ANOTHER reason to cancel them?''

''Milan Chagoury, who currently designs for Australian label Stay Bold, believes that Gucci copied a logo he made for the White Tiger Tattoo Co.''

''Less than a month after Gucci was accused of ripping off iconic Harlem couturier Dapper Dan, the Italian fashion house has been hit with another plagiarism controversy — this time by two separate designers''


Etc.

 ("Birds" by me, 1995, published on the Internet since 1998)

(The knit top by GUCCI, 2016th)

("Birds" by me (right), 1995, published on the Internet since 1998)

 ("Birds"  by GUCCI, 2016th) 

This precedent is not the only one...

(Knit dress by me, 1996, published on the Internet since 1998)

(Knit dress by me, 1998, published on the Internet since 1998)

(Knit sweater by GUCCI, 2018)

 (Sketches by me, 2001, published on the Internet since 2001)

(By GUCCI, 2017)

(Sketches and photos of knitted "Serpents" by me, 1998-2003, published on the Internet no later than in 2003)

(Set by Gucci, 2019)

("Serpents" by Gucci, 2018)

(Knit top by me, 1998, published on the Internet since 1998)

By Gucci, 2016.

Of course, they (the Gucci) do not agree with my accusations. I repeatedly corresponded with Mr. Alessio Vannetti, the GUCCI's WW Communications Director. It was mostly concerning two design ideas "borrowed" from me. Correspondence did not lead to anything. Mr. Vannetti argued to me that Gucci did not steal my ideas, reinforcing his assertion with for instance such arguments: "The creative concept of designing birds and winged animals in a symmetrical way origins from the Indian Madhubani paintings, created in the province of Mithila, India. Throughout the centuries, many designs have been taking inspiration from these prints and have been featured on garments blending with folkloristic elements from both Asia and Europe". (Hm-m-m... Great argument... I.e., in other words, GUCCI steals ideas not from concrete modern designers but from nameless ancient artists! :))

"The creative concept of designing birds " - was about this knit top:

The "simple" Europeans, however, do not completely agree with the arguments of GUCCI and they often write me: "Alexander, it definitely looks like they did some serious ~inspiration borrowing~, the idea seems too similar to have come from anywhere other than yo ur work. What I can't tell you, though, is if it actually counts as theft, or if it is simply an example of art inspiring art. It could be both. (Though, you'd think that at such a prestigious level, they wouldn't need to go rummaging through Pinterest and internet archives for ideas, and then mimic them so closely...) It's little comfort, but yours are far more interesting to look at!"

(Alexander Seraphim's knits, 1995)

«Like It's Jacquard»...

This theme emerged in my head in 1994 as a parody of 'traditional' jacquard - i. e. a classic design concept that is over a hundred years old and still going strong, decorating jumpers and dresses with crosses, rhomboid shapes, snowflakes and reindeers galloping mainly from right sweater's shoulder to left. 

Very few ideas were brought to life, remaining on the sketches and into my head...

"Hot Heart", 1994

Moscow, 1995...

Alexandra & Alexander Seraphim's knitted aberrations:

https://knitsbychel.blogspot.com/2020/06/haute-couture-from-russia.html

Alexander Seraphim's interview for LOTL (2015)

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

March 2015

Why does a male knitwear designer prefer his models in lesbian poses? Russia's Alexander Seraphim explains himself.

Alexander, a knitwear designer who enjoys embroidering his dresses and sweaters, gravitates toward a lesbian aesthetic, persuading his models to adopt playful lesbian poses. "This is my idea." he told LOTL. “I don’t know why, but at present I prefer to shoot my designs only with the aid of two models and in poses as if these two beautiful girls are more than simply friends. I see that such ‘lesbianish’ a style of fashion photography looks extremely charming and lyrical!”

Charming, but how have clients and colleagues reacted to his images?

“Customers are tactfully silent, but several fashion journalists (all American, none European) were rather indignant when I published such photos. (They said) ‘Alex, this is inadmissible! You harm yourself, your business! Delete these images from the site, they are too frivolous and can frighten off a considerable part of your clientele!”

Alexander, a man of many interests, was turned on to fashion design when perusing his wife’s knitting magazine. When he started to look at the illustrations, Alexander recently told an American magazine, he was reminded of a book he had recently perused on the history of photography, depicting one of the first color photos showing an Alps resort around 1912. “As time has passed through the ages, everything in our everyday world has evolved... Only the design of knitwear has resisted change! And I could not help fighting such a standstill, and I keep devoutly fighting up to the current moment.”

The former engineer incorporates functionality into his designs, yet he has the soul of an artist: he enjoys shocking people as much as pleasing them. The designs — not to mention the way they are showcased — are outrageously playful. He finds willing models, nevertheless.

“When I hire models, I usually come to an arrangement with one girl and ask her to invite (to the shoot) the second model who is her old friend or, at least, a good acquaintance of hers... They play the part of a non-traditional friendship — and they are not a bit embarrassed. For them this is simply a photographic novelty, an amusing play. And they often play this role even with a certain exhilaration and true artistic skill.” Among the models he employs are real lesbians, too. “One Moscow model is a real, hundred-per-cent lesbian.”

Alexander has even considered doing shoots with lesbians where no male photographer is present.

“I should be eliminated... If they would shoot themselves without any male near, that would be really the truest lesbian shooting.”

LOTL Magazine • lotl.com